Showing posts with label lock bypass driver. Show all posts
Showing posts with label lock bypass driver. Show all posts

Monday, November 2, 2020

Master Lock F25 and WB Padlock Lock Picking

 

Master Lock F25 Padlock Lock Picking (and a WB padlock)





The Master Lock F25 is a warded padlock with a variable height shackle. I did not have the key, and I did not have any warded picks, so for fun I modified a different pick I've never had reason to use.


I bought a $14 two-pick disc detainer lock pick set. One is shaped like a + sign and works great, the second one has a HUGE square end that hasn’t fit into any lock I’ve come across. So, I took the second huge disc detainer pick (not the nice "+" shaped one) and cut the unusable thick "flag" off the end.


 

Then I bent the wire tip 90 degrees.

 

Then I cut the blue handle down and ground down the silver tube part down. This gave me extra length. I could have just removed the blue handle part entirely.

 



This made this especially to pick/bypass this Masterlock F25 warded lock. The F25 has a zig-zag keyway and has a wedge thingy that grabs the indent on the inside of the shackle. There are indents on both sides of the shackle, but only one side of the lock. This way you can place the removable shackle in either way left/right. What is bad is that there is only one wedge-shaped locking thing so it’s much easier to pick than if there was one on each side!



Looking inside the left shackle hole shows the locking mechanism. The right side is a smooth hole which place no part in locking this lock.

 


The tolerances on the shackle are tight. A padlock shim would work—but there is not enough room to slide one in-between the shackle and the hole it goes into. You would only need to shim one side of the shackle, but you wouldn’t know which side. I consider this padlock to be basically shim-proof.  


The shackle has multiple indents so you can lock it as tall or short as you want. There are four height levels for the shackle to close down to. That’s actually a pretty nice feature!



 


How do you pick this lock?

 

I used this modified pick to probe the inside of the lock about halfway down and found the "clicky" spinning part deep down inside. The shackle isn’t spring loaded, so you have to balance holding the spring-loaded wedge open without going to far—and then gently pull the shackle out; or let gravity do it with the shackle facing the floor if there isn’t too much rust.

 

If you imagine the lock with the keyhole facing the sky and looking down inside there are “ledges” which are the wards. These are non-moving. The second or third one down has the moving spring loaded release mechanism underneath it. Poke the pick into the lock and let it rest on the middle ledge (ward). Carefully move it just underneath so you’re scraping the underside of this ward. Rotate the pick like a key and push and hold the release mechanism to free up the shackle. Scary simple once you figure it out!

 

 

Yes, it’s pretty easy with the right tool. In my case I didn’t have any warded lock picks at the time so I made this pick—for fun! A quicker solution would have been one of those Four-For-Three-Dollars Harbor Freight pick sets with the orange handles. The one with the 90-degree bend at the tip probably would have worked just as well. But it might have been a little too long. When I made me 90-degree bend I made the bent tip about half the width of the keyhole. That way I knew it would fit inside and be able to spin.

 

Luckily, this lock only has one release mechanism. If it had one on either side I would have needed a “T” shaped tip instead of a “7” shaped one. In that case an unmodified disc detainer pick with the square paddle at the end may have worked. Alas, Master Lock did not build it that way. Still a nice lock though. But it’s one you can bypass/defeat without even needing a tension wrench.

 

I like my solution better because it was more fun.

 

The wards are non-moving obstacles. You can just work above or below them. They just keep you from being able to jam a popsicle stick or something like that into the lock and turning it. 

However, if you split a popsicle stick in half lengthwise you can twist it gently but firmly in the lock, you would see where the non-moving wards leave an indent and then cut slots in those places: boom, now you have a wooden key for that lock! 

Of course, you’d want to transfer that pattern to something stronger than a popsicle stick, like a stiff piece of plastic or metal. As long as you spin anything that is the width of the keyhole (or half it’s with and hold it carefully) without jamming against a ward it should open the lock.


A quick post script: the demonic WB padlock.



This lock had me beat. It was on my desk for a week. I would fiddle with it on and off in between other projects. The shackle is really long, but also bent. The side of the lock is bulged out a little. I havd no key for it. I figured maybe it was broken?


Then i accidentally put the tension wrench in backwards and tensioned it COUNTER-clockwise. It basically opened right up with almost zero effort! Lefty-loosey-openy!!


I put tension on it and put a simple pick i to the keyway and it turned. Mo effort. Essier to pick than my transparent plastic practice locks.


When all else fails...

Friday, October 30, 2020

Padlock (Stelar and Walmart 40mm) lock picking

 A Stelar padlock and a 40mm walmart padlock picked using various methods: disc detainer pick; regular pick and tension wrench; comb pick and skeleton key.


The first is the Stelar disc detainer padlock.



40mm Walmart (2-pack) cheap padlock:







Those locks were fun and easy...ribbit!