Albrecht 0-3mm drill chuck for using the tiniest of drill bits (1/64 ; 0.33mm ; .4mm ; etc.).
Watch I'm making from scratch. Here is the 58mm main plate with 1 mm lip around it. I cut in a 0.25mm ledge for the dial to sit on.
Here is operation #4 on my lathe: putting in the 0.25mm lip that is 0.5mmm deep:
Finished main plate:
Main plate and slightly smaller (but thicker) piece that will be the bridge:
Lunar moon phase gear train mock-up model. The red lines are the axles. I can use any size/pitch/module gears as long as each set that touches each other match.
The 9, 9 and 35 must mesh to each other only.
The 11 and 40 must mesh to each other only.
The 17 and 71 much mesh to each other only.
So, the 11 and 40 could be tiny little gears that cellphones use to vibrate when they ring, while the 17 and 71 could be huge gears out of a car's transmission--or vise-versa.
The center bore holes of each gear doesn't really matter. With the lathe I can make an axle that is as thin as a toothpick on one end and as thick as a baseball bat on the other.
So, I'll be searching through my random supplies for gears.
So I have digital calipers on my Taig lathe to measure .00015" or .01mm and they take an LR44 1.5v battery.
The battery drains even when off so I found a 1.5vDC wall adapter and wired it up. Weirdly, under this very light current (amp) load it was giving almost 3v.
So I put a resistor on the negative wire. I tried a few and either got: nothing; all the numbers showing 888888; or almost zero but when I hit the "zero" button it would jump to .0005 or 6 or 7. I tried a bunch of resistors until the 51k Ohm resistor let me hit the zero button and the display stayed at .0000" or 00.00mm.
Since the 1.5v setting on the wall transformer was putting out 3.3v that means I can replace it with a less odd USB cable (although many are 5v). I'd probably have to change the resistor for a slighly higher value.
I kit bashed an Onell Design figure called Pheyden into an alien xenomorph. The Glyomorph!
It uses the Glyos peg system to have interchangeable hands, feet, limbs, heads, etc. with many designers.
Here is the Pheyden figure:
I put an extra small head on him and him backwards:
Two part Aves epoxy clay parts A and B kneaded together gives about a 4 hour working time before it air dries:
Ended up doing the tail in two parts and gluing together afterwards:
Inspired by: Crafsman Steadycraftin and AC Toy Design and Onell Design.
I also made a Cataloging Librarian action figure and made a silicone mold of it and blasted out resin copies in various colors using Smooth Cast 45d and 65d resin, ignite pigments and a vacuum degassing for the silicone and pressure pot casting for the resin in the mold:
DeVilbis painting pressure pot:
With l that safety stuff removed to allow 60psi to squeeze any bubbles in the resin to microscopic size:
Vacuum chamber I made for a fusor device repurposed for degassing the silicone mold making liquid:
I started logic analyzing a 16F916 chip in a wireless thermostat using PulseView (free software from Saleae) and a generic logic analyzer hooked up to the old Linux laptop.
It turns out PulseView has decoders for Wiegand...the protocols I was using while decoding and cloning RFID security dongles and door access cards! Remove the data analyzer and put on an antenna: sucking up all that Wiegand security info. Record and play it back.
Here is just the little logic probe pen (in case you've never seen one before). I just buzzes and squeals and lights up with up/down arrows and that shows up where the logic is going or coming from.
Here is the logic analyzer with it hooked up to legs of the microchip; this shows the physical setup and screen results (see software settings below):
This is the 16F916 chip I was first playing with:
Below are the nice and easy settings I used in PulseView for the logic analyzer (the thing with the red wire clippy things--not the pen-shaped probe thingy which just buzzes and lights up). Saleae has a free download on their website, but since I was using the tiny old Linux laptop I added it via Linux Package Manager.
Oh look, some Wiegand security info. Hmm...stream state and bit values. Sniff out the security signals and then see the binary values.
So what can you do with this setup? Alarm system sniffing, breaching and JAMMING!
For right now let's forget about the Wiegand stuff and focus on a simple wireless alarm 433Mhz 866Mhz jammer and sniffer:
A Baofeng GT-5R radio can be used to jam home alarm systems. Many home alarms operate wirelessly (window, door, hallway sensors) on either 433Mhz or 866Mhz. This cheap, $25 radio can transmit on 43Mhz--while doing so it also sends out a frequency at double the Mhz...which just happens to be 866Mhz.
You can see the little burbling waves of the background 433Mhz devices...and then see them all drowned out by the 5 Watt radio. Now, you have to remember that 5W is way, way more powerful than what all the little infrared wall mounted sensors and cameras are putting out, so the radio easily drowns out pretty much the entire alarm network (and all the neighbors too).
This radio receives 144Mhz-148Mhz, FM radio and it can also TRANSMIT on 420MHz-450Mhz.
This was tested on an installed alarm system and WORKED. Holding down the transmit button allows you to open doors/windows and walk past room/hallway sensors without setting off the alarm or even getting an interference warning from the alarm main box! The sniffer is an RTL-SDR dongle, hooked to a MooElec Ham it up box running into a laptop (running linux mint, but it works on Windows). The antenna is a simple telescoping AM/FM type antenna and the antenna on the transmitter is the cheapie one that came with it. The software to see all this awesomeness was CubicSDR with basically the default settings.
This post is like 8 different things smooshed into one: alarm jamming, Wiegand RFID keycard and dongle cloning (much more on that later), logic analyzers and probes, logic protocol decoding, PulseView and cheap radio alarm jammers (more on that later too). I'll edit out some and try to separate this all...basically the little Linux laptop is now the center of a terrifying, portable electronics warfare setup. LOL!
My QA answer for someone using a cheap logic analyzer:
For Linux go to software packager and install "PulseView" and then install "sigrick-firmware-fx2lafw" which is the driver for this.
Start PulseView and this should show up.
If it doesnt click the downward arrow on top center edge of screen and select "connect to device" and select "fx2lafw" which will show the device as Saleae Logic. Click run.
You need to have this hooked up to something. I used a wireless thermostat and hooked the ground wire to the spring holding in the AA battery powering it.
I hooked the CLK wire to a clock leg of a microchip inside of the thermostat and randomly hooked some other wires to other legs and clicked run: awesome!
Just made a Cardioid curve push push latch with my new milling machine and drill press. The straightaway is lower than the diagonal path so the pointer can't go up the diagonal, only down it on the return.
Scrap aluminum, wd-40 as cutting fluid. Little Machine Shop manual mill.
Angles milled by just turning the rotating base machine vise and locking it down again for each angle.
I saw This Old Tony make a similar one (though he used a CNC machine) and figured if I changed the return curve to a properly angled diagonal I could make it with my manual mill. So I did!
There is less friction that way so I could use a weaker spring.
Cardioid = heart-shaped
I did this while avoiding a cardio-workout of snow shoveling.
Watchmaking Machinery 4: Rotary Table and Indexing Head with Plates
This is a 6" Rotary Table with a 3-slot plate. Normally 4 slots are better, but I'm using the bore hole. The bore at the center of this takes MT2 (Morse Taper #2) inserts. I have (not arrived yet) an MT2-to-ER32 collet holder.
Table MT2 > ER32 Collet Holder > ER32 Collet (various sizes) > Mandrel > Blank I'll cut into a gear.
This is one of the division plates. The holes are used to index the rotation of the table to a certain number (or multiple/division of non-Prime numbers). You hand crank this and go one-by-one.
This is a photo of the hand crank. It's in my milling machine because the slot was about 0.8mm too narrow to fit over the shaft it has to mount on. So I milled it larger (0.3mm off one side and about 0.5mm off the other to try and center the slot). I went slow and got it fitted nicely.
The only other issue was the pin that retracts and then pokes into the holes. It was very scratchy and binding. I took it apart, wiped off the thin grease, cleaned out some grit(?) and then it seemed to work 90% better. I think the spring binds a little since the tolerances inside are so tight. I could get (make on my lathe) a different spring but I'll see if this wears in better.
WHAT A PAIN!!! But the table was cheap and shipped (and arrived) in less than 20 hours...during a blizzard! The table rotates buttery-smooth. Totally worth it.
Gear Generator dot com! You can put gears attached to each other on the same axle. Very useful for lunar gear trains.
It was so cold and windy and slushy and snowy that this squirrel came to dry off in the blue jay nest by my side door.
